The last few days were characterized by autumnal rain and long, often monotonous bike paths along the Danube. In fact, I already knew in advance that river bike paths weren’t among my favorites. But when planning the route, compromises have to be made: a route that is as beautiful and diverse as possible, with little traffic, moderate elevation gain, and not too many detours are what I want to combine with the destination I’m trying to reach; something that doesn’t always work out for me.

Last night we stopped in Budapest. As hoped, we were able to use the platform WarmShowers staying with an „local“ person.

„The Warmshowers.org Foundation is a vibrant community of cyclists and welcoming hosts who embody the spirit of mutual hospitality. The community serves as a platform for cyclists seeking meaningful encounters and perhaps even the comfort of a warm shower during their travels. The dedicated hosts who embody the kindness of our mission generously open their doors to cyclists, creating genuine moments of joy for all involved.“

So we ended up at Agnes, 57 years old, in a quirky old apartment on the third floor of a 130-year-old building in the Buda district. The apartment was large, crammed with all kinds of collectibles – a living archive of personal history, spread out over high rooms with four-meter-high ceilings. Carrying the packing bags and bicycles – the latter for safety – meant a few extra meters of height in the evening, which did not appear in any route planning but were quite noticeable.

Agnes welcomed us warmly and treated us to a typical Hungarian mushroom goulash (vegetarian). During the meal and the subsequent tour of the night-time Budapest, she spoke at length about the current situation in Hungary – very lively and very open, which made it so valuable for us.

Born in 1968, she grew up in a time that was later referred to as „goulash communism“ – an Hungarian variant of socialism, spiced with a dash of pragmatism and relative economic freedom. 

Looking back, she describes the living conditions as good, as long as one was willing to adapt to the prevailing rules of the game. Freedom was relative, but everyday life worked.

When she began her studies in economics in 1987, the country was already on the move. The Iron Curtain was beginning to crumble, and she remembers those years as the best time of her life. 

The professors were technically excellent, the discourse was open, and the future felt very close. It was a phase of breakthrough where we thought together, discussed, and dreamed – not only of reforms, but of real change.

Today, more than three decades later, Viktor Orbán has ruled the country for more than 15 years. What once began as a democratic reinvention has transformed into an increasingly authoritarian spectacle. History is being rewritten, public funds are distributed according to party loyalty, and cultural institutions are closed down. For example, a former dance theater in the Burgviertel of Budapest was transformed into the seat of the Prime Minister – flanked by guards who regularly carry out the substitution in the style of British ceremonies. A tradition that never existed in Hungary but is now part of the new symbolism.

The youth and everyone who can afford to leave the country. What remains is a shrinking middle class, increasingly uncertain and without a viable social network. What was once hope is now everyday life for many in a system that is more focused on power and individual wealth than on the common good.

All of this was adorned with a great deal of detailed knowledge and personal experience on Agnes's part, making it a very thought-provoking evening for us. 

After a good cup of coffee in the morning, she offered Friederike an insight into her creative phase as a ceramicist. Her love lies in prehistoric forms and production methods.

We are very grateful that we had the opportunity, even if only briefly, to look behind the beautiful facade of the city. This visit leaves an impression.