Situated on the banks of the Kura River, nestled between hills and ancient trade routes, Tbilisi has been a place of transition between Europe and Asia for over a millennium and a half.

The name Tbilisi derives from the Georgian word „tbili“ – 'warm'. Legend has it that King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered hot sulfur springs on this spot in the 5th century and had a city built here. These springs still flow today, especially in the historic Abanotubani district, where domed brick baths still steam.

Tbilisi's Old Town follows no urban plan. It grows, twists, opens up unexpectedly. Houses with crooked wooden and now steel balconies lean against each other, churches stand next to mosques and synagogues, small workshops next to cafés. Nothing here is primped. Plaster crumbles, colours fade – and that is precisely what makes it charming.

The Narikala Fortress, guardian of the city for centuries, sits enthroned above the old town – currently closed for refurbishment, unfortunately. From up there, there is a wonderful view over the city's rooftops and the river, with the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus glowing in the background.

Just a few minutes from medieval alleyways, modern Tbilisi begins: wide boulevards, Art Nouveau facades, monumental Soviet buildings, glass and steel. The Bridge of Peace stretches futuristically across the river, while the Sameba Cathedral, completed in 2004, dominates the city.

Georgian cuisine is honest, filling, and made for sharing. Khachapuri – bread stuffed with cheese –, Khinkali – juicy dumplings – and wine are simply a must. Georgia is considered one of the oldest wine-growing regions in the world, and for good reason.

For me, the contrast after weeks in rural regions was initially hard to bear. Too many cars, too many people, too much of all those things that people in the countryside seem to be missing. At the same time, Tbilisi offered me the opportunity to find some peace, plan my onward journey, do my laundry and – very importantly and especially nicely – meet other travellers (again).